Rum Connoisseur
Interview of The Week:

KARINE LASSALLE

Master Blender at Rhum J.M. Distillery

 

1. Who is Karine Lassalle?

I have been the Quality Control Manager and Cellar Master at the Rhum J.M Distillery since January 2017. I am a native of the southwestern region of France, about an hour and a half from the Bordeaux vineyards and not far from the Armagnac region.

I have a degree in chemistry with a specialty in perfumes, aromas and cosmetics, from the Faculty of Science at the University of Montpellier in France. I was predestined to be “a nose” in perfumery and discovered the world of spirits with my position at Edition Jean Lenoir with “Le Nez du Vin”. I worked there for almost 3 years and created 54 aromas for their “The Nez du Whisky”. This position allowed me to get a nice business card to apply for a position in the spirits industry. I was especially attracted by Martinique rums.

I arrived in Martinique in September 2014 and worked for 2 years with HSE Rums and the Simon Distillery, before I moved to the J.M distillery in January 2017.

 

2. What does the rum mean for you? What made you fall in love with rum and when did it happen?

Rum for me is one of the most fascinating spirits as it offers a multitude of facets for its tasting. It is certainly the only spirit that the blanc is tasted and enjoyed as often as the aged!

But my love and my passion for rum is above all a love for the culture that surrounds it. Rum evolves in a very diverse universe, with diverse cultures and origins. Rum reflects the tropical “joie de vivre”, no matter where you are in the Caribbean basin. Each of the famous rum-producing territories has this festive aspect. It is a joie de vivre and this conviviality that you can’t find anywhere else! This is certainly what I like most about this universe and what I believe is not as apparent in other spirits.

3. Three essential characteristics that define the rum according to your perspective.

Depth: Rums from all over the world have an impressive aromatic richness. With each tasting we can discover a different universe that makes us travels somewhere new (through the glass) – this is a very important criterion for me.

Character: If rum were a woman, it would be “an iron hand in a velvet glove.” I like its character and powerful side, while it also has a seductive aspect that does not leave one indifferent to every tasting.

Pleasure: I am an epicurean at heart. I come from a region where we eat very well… and rum for me is one of the only spirits that reflects this joie de vivre and the pleasure of tasting.

4. What is the most important contribution you have made in the rum industry?

I am too shy to answer this question so my friend Kiowa Bryan will answer for me:

“In today’s age of technology, it is important to honor the culture and traditions that Rhum J.M has established over many generations, while also staying ahead of the curve with innovation and quality. This is a very fragile balance to define but Karine juggles these two factors effortlessly while at the same time pushing the technical envelope and re-defining the quality of our aged rums. She has an unmatched palate, a fresh and playful perspective on the rum category, and joins the growing list of women shattering ceilings and making their mark as leaders in the rum category. Also she’s the funniest person I’ve ever met.“

 

5. Benefits that the rum industry has given you.

The world of rum is one that offers more innovation to all other major spirit groups. Above all, rum has given me the opportunity to express myself through our products.

Also I like to interact with all the world’s rum producers. Each territory has a different vision of a common product and it is quite rewarding to discover the aspirations of each one. I am also pleased to see more women coming into prominent positions behind the important brands in the rum industry.

6. What’s another thing you are passionate about, in addition to rum? Why?

I’m passionate about a lot of things. I’m pretty creative and artistic actually.

I practice Cuban salsa, contemporary dance, and I love creating a multitude of things! I sew, I paint, I like to recycle and transform recovered or broken objects and find them a new use … I have fun all day long!

I believe that to maintain creativity in my profession, it is important that I maintain it in other activities. And often, by doing these side activities, I find solutions to my production problems.

 

7. What is your favorite place for drinking rum?

I have no favorite place to drink a glass of rum; the essential thing is to be together with friends to share it!

 

 8. Favorite drink – Recipe

No questions asked, a Ti’ Punch Vieux:

• M ESB (Gold as you say in the USA) or J.M VO.
• Cane syrup
• Lime zest
• 1 ice cube

It doesn’t take more than that to please me.

 

9. Why is it important to educate the rum consumer?

If I take the example of Martinique, many more people outside our island know much more about rum than the Martiniquais themselves! It’s an aberration for me. Rum has a heavy history in the Caribbean, which still leads to preconceptions about our spirits. And yet the evolution in our production has been enormous over the last 50 years. We need to educate more and more our closest consumers about their product, which makes their territory rich. In addition, all of our consumers around the world need to know and understand our production in order to better appreciate our products. It’s a long-term job but so exciting!

 

10. Any tips to train the palate and taste good premium rum?

It is important when doing a tasting to put aside preconceived notions of “I like” or “I do not like”. Otherwise we will not be impartial in our tasting criteria. Then you have to take your time. The idea is not to be the first to recognize this or that aroma – the idea is to take pleasure during the tasting and analyze the product. Last criterion against the product is to remain very humble, especially when the tasting is done by several people. No one is better than you and you are no better than the others during a tasting.

The techniques of tastings are then quite simple:

• 1st nose without agitation: it will allow you to perceive the power and olfactory richness of the product, as well as the most volatile aromatic notes. By tipping the glass from one nostril to another you will discover that your nostrils react differently to perceived aromas.
• 2nd nose after stirring of the glass: After the first volatile aromas have evaporated you can discover a more complete richness of the product
• Mouth feel: you will experience the power in the palate, its volume, its roundness and its aromatic complexity. This can carry from the entry until the finish

Small tip! If you pinch your nose the same time as tasting (without choking – be careful!) and then you open your nose for a few seconds; you will see the aromatic scents go straight back into your nose. You will then understand the impact of the nose in the tasting of a spirit as in any food.

 

11. How can the rum contribute to improving the crisis in some countries?

Rum can be a good player in job creation in some territories. The world of rum concerns agriculture, mechanics, biology, the art of cooperage, marketing, accounting, international logistics, trade, tourism… so many trades are affiliated with rum… and industries are often located in territories that are poor in job opportunities. When I visit different distilleries, every time I feel the pride of all to participate in this prestigious and at the same time accessible industry that is rum.

Moreover, the world of rum is a party around the world – and in these gloomy times when social distancing is necessary, when we emerge from this crisis, many of us will gather around a good glass of rum!

12. Is the commitment to sustainable development the key of success for the permanence of the rum industry in the world? Why?

Personally, I try to be careful to reduce my personal waste. I consume more and more local products, favoring to buy direct from small producers who are in large numbers on our island. My grandmother has a farm; my parents grow their own vegetables… I have always seen my surroundings respect nature intuitively. I try to perpetuate this, especially since today I live on a vulnerable island that must be protected to the fullest.

So I’m delighted to know that our rum industries are taking the issue seriously. I am fortunate to work for one of the first distilleries in Martinique to engage in this economically responsible approach. We recycle our bagasse both in our steam production, in the production of local electricity, and as compost for our sugarcane and banana fields.

Our atmospheric discharges have been greatly reduced by the construction of a new boiler that scrubs our fumes extremely thoroughly to leave next to zero impact. We are also engaged in a new process of recycling our vinasse, which consists of filtering it through beds of lilies, planted in order to produce clarified water, rich in nutrients and good for our soils. We are in the process of reintroducing more and more mechanical techniques in our fields to replace plant protection products for weeding in our fields.

All these eco-responsible elements are heavy investments, but we are convinced that they are necessary for the future of our production.

 

13. Who would like to meet in the rum industry? What would you say to him/her?

Definitely Joy Spence! I think I’d make her taste one of our rums and say, “What do you think?”

14. What are your next goals in the rum industry?

In my position at the JM Distillery, I believe I still have a lot of work to do to achieve the level of quality I have set for our products. I still have a lot of ideas in mind that you’ll see as you go along. There’s so much to do!

15. Plans you have when you leave the rum industry.

I don’t even know if I would ever leave the rum industry. I have never asked myself that question. I live my adventure to the fullest today and I remain attentive to what surrounds me. The future will tell me what it is…

16. Why is the role of the bartender important in the rum industry?

They are the last touch that transforms our products. We create the product, which i hope inspires them to create a new and inviting experience. Plus they are very passionate and usually very well educated about the products they serve. They are a key mouth piece to deliver our brand’s assets and values. Of course many types of rum are perfectly enjoyed enough on their own, but it still is the person that serves them “pure” or recommends them to sip is important. I am fascinated by bartenders utilizing our rum in their finest cocktails in order to express another facet of what we make. Bartenders are like the cellar masters… master assemblers!

17. What is your advice for new generations in the rum industry?

“If you love what you do, you will never work a day in your life”

No matter what job you do, you always have to be indulged in everything you do. It’s essential.

18. How can people learn more about you? Website? Social media page?

You can follow my everyday rum adventures in Martinique on Instagram at @karine_lassalle_