On October 27, 2021 a livestream started on the “ZAVVY” platform hosted by “The Rum Lab” with the participation of Fede J Hernandez, an entrepreneur specialising in sales and marketing and as guests Jose Muñoz, he is the business development manager of “La Destileria” and Luis Jose Cruz Rivera, chief spirits engineer, who will talk about their participation in the spirits industry and give us a virtual tour of the facilities of “La Destileria”.
José Muñoz serves as the Business Development Manager for “La Destileria”. His role is instrumental in showcasing the exceptional work done in Hialeah to the world. He is responsible for effectively communicating and selling the magic of “La Destileria”.
In contrast, Luis Cruz Rivera is the Chief Spirits Engineer. His role is to design the spirits, drawing inspiration to determine their unique notes and characteristics. He reverse engineers processes, working with the chemistry, phenomenology, fermentation, distillation, and specific maturation techniques applied to their rums.
“La Destileria” is strategically located in Jayuya, one of the cultural centers of Puerto Rico. This town is rich in pre-Columbian artifacts from the Taino Indians and boasts a strong culture of artisanal work. As Federico mentioned, Jayuya is the fourth largest producer of coffee in Puerto Rico and home to some of the most gourmet brands.
The team at “La Destileria” wanted to leverage the natural beauty, inspiration, quality of water, and the people of Jayuya to make a unique statement. In 2016, they embarked on a journey to produce premium and ultra-premium rums, setting themselves apart from the rest of the island.
Their goal is to provide a full experience. From the moment visitors arrive and see the distinctive building, they are immersed in a special experience. Visitors leave with not just a couple of bottles of good rum, but also a connection and memories to share.
The story of pre-Columbian Puerto Rico is fascinating. When Columbus arrived, the Taino Indians were the inhabitants of the land. However, there were two generational groups before the Tainos: the Igneri and their ancestors, the Arawak. These groups were tribal forces that had made significant generational leaps. The Tainos, a newer culture, found themselves in conflict with the Arawak and Carib Indians in the lower section of the Caribbean.
In Puerto Rico, the Tainos and their ancestors are often portrayed as pacifists. However, a closer look at history reveals that these roots were known for their fierceness.
Luis Cruz Rivera has a personal connection to this rich cultural heritage. Although he spent only four years in Adjuntas, he considers it his hometown due to its meaningful rainforest and mountain culture. Most of his formative years were spent in San Juan. His familial ties extend to Jayuya, where both his mother’s family and his father are originally from. Despite initial misunderstandings about his lineage in the town, he found Jayuya to be a very welcoming place.
In the heart of Puerto Rico, nestled next to the tasting room, lies the central part of “La Destileria”. This distillery is not just a place of rum production, but a testament to the creativity and precision that goes into each batch.
The distillery houses a series of tanks and equipment, including three temperature-controlled and computerized fermenters, each with a capacity of 600 liters. These fermenters allow for high contact between fermentable sugars and yeast, enabling the creation of diverse rum profiles.
Each style of rum undergoes a unique fermentation process, with specific temperatures, acidity levels, and nutrients added. The fermented mixture is then taken to an Arnold Holstein still, a complete copper still with a steam jacket at the bottom. Technically known as a hybrid pot still, it allows for small batch production while using a small column to achieve a dynamic range in production.
This dynamic range enables the distillery to accentuate specific flavors or elements of smell in the rum. Instead of producing one type of rum and treating it with different barrels, “La Destileria” creates various rums and matches them to different barrel types. This approach results in rums with specific profiles, characteristics, and depth of character.
Following distillation, the first tanks seen in the video serve as storage for all small batch productions. Despite being located in the rainforest, “La Destileria” maintains an industrial capacity for production. The co-located and streamlined system has allowed for significant growth, with production increasing year over year between 50% and 70%. It is estimated that this growth will lead to close to 60,000 cases being produced over the next five years.
“La Destileria”, like many rum producers worldwide, operates on 100% molasses production, especially those without adjacent sugarcane fields. However, their unique approach to pre-production sets them apart from the rest.
While many distilleries dilute their molasses to achieve a specific consistency and sugar content before fermentation, “La Destileria” believes that this method, while efficient for maintaining industrial-grade production, does not yield interesting notes in the rum.
They offer two alternatives: low sugar content fermentations that focus on high efficiency and low ester style rums, or clarifying the molasses through a dual boil with a crush pool. This process precipitates the solids in the molasses, including different sulfides and ash, resulting in a more neutral expression with a distinct sugary, grassy content.
Depending on the pre-production process used for the molasses, they can drastically alter the efficiency of the different notes and characteristics expressed by the yeast. This unique approach to pre-production allows them to create a variety of rums with distinct flavors and aromas.
The fermentation process is another critical factor that significantly impacts the flavors and smells of the rum. Factors such as the volume of fermentable sugars (measurable in Brix or specific gravity) and the type of yeast used play crucial roles in determining the final product’s characteristics. This meticulous attention to detail in both pre-production and fermentation underscores “La Destileria”’s commitment to quality and innovation in rum production.
At “La Destileria”, the choice of yeast plays a pivotal role in the rum production process. They can opt for a very fine yeast that results in low production but high Alcohol By Volume (ABV), yielding a very clean palate. Alternatively, they can use more robust yeasts like turbo yeast, which have side notes that can be extracted during fractionation. This process allows them to fortify specific flavors and odors in the heart of their rum.
The distillation process at “La Destileria” is tailored to the type of rum they aim to produce. Unlike some distilleries that perform two different runs – one for extracting the highest volume of alcohol and another for refining the cuts – “La Destileria” combines their column and pot still usage for continuous distillation at a small batch scale. This method allows them to extract a high volume of yield and achieve desired quality levels within a single pass, approximating what another distillery would need multiple distillations to achieve.
This approach provides a dynamic range where they can modulate flavors, smells, and mouthfeel. All products from “La Destileria” share three main components: a pleasant nose, a full body, and depth of character. They believe in producing spirits that are slightly alcohol-forward, giving them more room to play with flavors and odors.
Every expression of their rum has core flavors, nuances, and very specific notes tied to their unique processes. While other distilleries may add sugars, caramels, or other additives to tweak profiles slightly, “La Destileria” prides itself on being purists. Nestled in the rainforest, their strategy is to showcase the purest expression of the artistry of making rum.
At “La Destileria”, the choice of yeast is a critical factor in their rum production process. They do not use turbo yeast, which is similar to baker’s yeast optimized for ethanol production but not for flavor. Instead, they prioritize quality over quantity, ensuring that the rum introduced to the barrel is of the highest quality possible. Their focus is on maturation science, not merely waiting for the product to refine inside the barrel. They aim for natural processes to occur but ensure that they begin with very high-quality rum in the barrel.
The importance of yeast selection is one reason why Javier Herrera is a crucial part of their team structure. They have explored yeasts from all over the world, focusing on what each yeast brings to the bottle as a value add.
When designing a new type of rum, they start from scratch rather than reusing an old type of rum from a barrel. As they define the desired experience, subtleties, and nuances, they compile a small list of yeasts that qualify. These yeasts undergo an experimental trial to determine which one will be used. This chosen yeast then becomes the ‘father yeast’ that implements the brand or pipeline of that particular product.
Innovation around these core ingredients allows them to create different expressions of each style of rum. For example, their artisanal line includes a white rum and an aged rum. While these rums share the same materials – yeast, fermentation type, and distillation type – the decisions made about how they are distilled and aged vary drastically. This results in two related but very different expressions of rum.
Pitorro, a cultural icon of Puerto Rico, is more than just a spirit; it is a symbol of unity and storytelling. Much like American moonshine, Pitorro was originally an illicit liquor produced in the mountains and coasts of Puerto Rico. The roots of this spirit trace back to the island’s significant sugar trade, which began during the era of slavery and indentured servitude and continued through the transition from Spanish to American rule.
Sugar cane pieces were roughly distilled using small or smuggled equipment, resulting in a liquor that was widely available, especially in the mountain towns. The distinct characteristics of Pitorro, such as its crude nature, the aroma of sugarcane, and its peppery flavor, are reminiscent of this style of illicit rum.
The creators of Pitorro aimed to deconstruct these elements and transform the illicit spirit into a legal product that could be enjoyed on a larger scale. In 2016, Luis Jose Cruz Rivera embarked on this project. That year alone, they participated in several competitions, including the American Distilling Institute, and returned with four gold medals, including a double gold for best in class Overproof.
This success inspired them to expand their horizons. With the right equipment and the backing of Toro, they set out to produce other great spirits, age spirits, and represent Puerto Rico on a larger scale. Their portfolio is not limited to one spirit with different aging processes; it represents a complete reinvention of their approach to rum production.
At “La Destileria”, the maturation process of rum is a meticulous art. Different barrels are used for different styles of rum, depending on whether the rum is more fragrant or intended to age longer. The choice between rum barrels and ex-bourbon barrels is made to ensure the completion of their spirits.
The barrels at “La Destileria” are arranged in two ways: some are laid down, while others stand upright. The upright barrels subtract about 18% of the total oak surface from contact with the liquid, reducing the influence of the wood on the spirit. To compensate for this reduction, other exotic woods are placed inside these barrels, as indicated by a string tied to them.
This approach differs from many other distilleries that follow a general practice for aging and make adjustments in or out of the barrel before finalizing the product. At “La Destileria”, they marry barrels with different characteristics with their specific rum lines to maintain the integrity of each particular spirit.
Jose Muñoz, a professional in the rum industry, has been involved in the field for over 20 years. His experience spans working with a local brewery and another rum distillery in Puerto Rico. It was at this distillery where he met Javier Herrera, who was consulting for a major rum company in Puerto Rico.
They shared conversations about family, life, and rum. Herrera, upon realizing the potential of the rum industry in Puerto Rico, expressed his dream of owning a rum brand. He was so in love with the island that he vowed to establish his brand there and invited Muñoz to be his partner.
As Muñoz transitioned into consultancy, they began discussing how to create a beautiful craft artisanal rum. Herrera, who has been a consultant in the industry for over 20 years, brought valuable experience to their venture. He has served as a judge for many international rum and cocktail competitions and is the president of an important international rum congress called “Congreso Internacional de Ron”. This congress was initially held in Madrid before moving to Miami.
Herrera’s extensive consulting work for top distilleries around the world, both big and small, has placed him at the heart of the industry. Muñoz convinced him to bring his expertise to Puerto Rico and join them in producing rums in Jayuya. Their journey exemplifies a shared passion for rum and a commitment to showcasing Puerto Rico’s potential in the global rum industry.
The inclusion of Javier Herrera in the team has had a significant impact on their operations. Herrera brings with him not just a general understanding of the rum market, but firsthand knowledge of its workings, the industry landscape, and its key players. His insights into the challenges and successes within the industry, such as issues with glass and gains with new cork products, provide an in-depth, real-world, global perspective that is invaluable to a local Puerto Rican operation.
Herrera’s expertise extends beyond understanding the rum business in general. He contributes significantly to the chemistries and phenomenology managed to create their products. Currently, they source barrels from five different bourbon distilleries to match with the types of rum they produce.
Looking at their innovation pipeline for future products, Herrera’s role becomes even more crucial. His involvement extends their network beyond local distilleries to include international connections for barrels and other materials.
The COVID-19 has impacted supply chains globally, glass become a problem for every producer, large and small. As a growing producer, they face challenges due to lower volumes last year and commitments from producers to larger companies. To scale up their production, they have had to creatively finance their operations.
In this challenging environment, the networks developed by Jose Munoz over the last 20 years and Javier Herrera throughout his career path have been instrumental. These networks alleviate many of the supply chain pressures faced by startups, allowing them to focus on growth and diversify their supply chain. This strategic approach ensures that they are well-prepared to avoid stumbling over today’s problems in the coming years.
At “La Destileria”, the team aimed to encapsulate their story of craftsmanship into a single bottle and name. They chose “Artesano”, translating to “artisan”, which embodies their philosophy and the intricate details that go into producing each bottle.
The uniqueness of their product begins with the label. Unlike the usual paper labels, “Artesano” uses tin, a malleable metal. Each label is engraved, painted, and then partially erased to create an imperfect look. This process ensures that every label is unique, much like a digital imprint.
However, the use of tin presents a practical challenge. Unlike paper labels that are rolled onto bottles systematically on a production line, tin labels must be applied by hand. After filling and laying down the bottle, each label is manually placed and numbered, adding to the artisanal touch.
Inside the bottle is a blend of rums aged between 3 and 5 years in bourbon casks. Designed as a European rum, “Artesano” is distinctly dry, less sweet than most aged rums in the industry. This characteristic is by design, a decision made by their master, Javier Herrera, who aimed for purity in their rum-making process. No sugars, caramels, or other sweeteners are added to their rums.
The result is a rum that strikes a balance between traditional rum and whiskey. If one were to create a spectrum with rum on one end and whiskey on the other, “Artesano” would likely fall in the middle, closely resembling bourbon. This unique approach reflects the team’s commitment to reinventing rum production while preserving its artisanal essence.
“La Destileria”, under the guidance of Jose Muñoz, has a unique approach to crafting rum. Unlike many rum makers, their target audience is primarily bourbon drinkers. They aim to attract a mature demographic, specifically individuals aged between 30 and 50 years. These are individuals who have a refined palate, having experienced a variety of high-quality beverages, and are selective about their choices.
Their rum offers a new alternative for whiskey and bourbon drinkers, as it presents a flavor profile distinct from traditional rum. This uniqueness has led them to focus on attracting mostly whiskey and bourbon drinkers with their artisanal anejo.
One of their notable products is the “106”. The name “106” derives from the distillation proof of the rum. It is then bottled at 53%, intentionally designed to be over 50% alcohol by volume. Two aspects make this product particularly intriguing. Firstly, the olfactory experience it offers is distinct from the taste, providing an interesting contrast between the nose and the palate. Secondly, despite its high alcohol content, it delivers a smooth and pleasant experience in the mouth. Just a cube of ice can enhance its elegance and prolong its stay on the palate.
They also launched “Bohica”, an evolution of their previous product, “Puerto Rico 106”. In creating “Bohica”, they refined the distillation process by eliminating certain elements that made “Puerto Rico 106” less refined. They aged it for about a year in bourbon casks and added some exotic woods selected by Luis to both color and depth of flavor. This results in a complex rum that offers a delightful experience.
Jose Muñoz, representing La Destileria, has introduced a unique product named Bohique. By definition, Bohique is a spiced rum, but the company has made efforts to convince the federal government to reclassify it as a botanical rum due to its distinct production process.
Unlike traditional spiced rums that undergo some level of aging and are typically flavored with cinnamon, vanilla, and sometimes sugar or other sweeteners, Bohique’s process is markedly different. The rum is aged for nearly a year in bourbon casks at 65% ABV. It is then diluted to 43% ABV, the bottling strength, using a specially crafted tea made from anise and local honey.
Once diluted, micro infusions of orange peel, grapefruit peel, elderberry, chamomile tea, cloves, vanilla, and cinnamon are added. This results in a product with significant complexity and a beautiful aroma. Described by Muñoz as “a cocktail in a bottle,” Bohique has surprised many with its intricate taste profile.
The product’s name, Bohique, pays homage to the Taino shaman. As explained by Luis from La Destileria, the Taino heritage is deeply rooted in Iowa. The company chose to honor this heritage by naming their spiced rum after the Taino shaman.
The reception for Bohique has been overwhelmingly positive. Its success is not only attributed to its attractive packaging but also to the quality of the product itself. The positive reaction it has garnered signifies a promising future for this unique botanical rum.
La Destileria, a brand represented by Jose Muñoz, has recently been included in the Puerto Rico Rum Program. Despite being a relatively new entity with three young brands, La Destileria managed to impress the program organizers with their vision and the direction of their company. This led to their inclusion in a special event dedicated to rums and music, an honor that was greatly appreciated by the team at La Destileria.
The decision-making process regarding inclusion in the program was originally considered outdated by some, including Muñoz. It was designed to cater to specific industry needs at that time. However, the rum industry has evolved significantly over the years, leading to a broader understanding of what constitutes rum.
La Destileria’s inclusion in the program signifies a shift in this understanding and an openness to new and emerging brands. The company maintains a strong relationship with the program and the Puerto Rico Development Department, both of which have expressed optimism about La Destileria’s future endeavors. This mutual belief and hope have contributed to a positive working relationship, bringing satisfaction to all parties involved.
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