On October 12, 2021, a livestream was started on the platform “ZAVVY”, hosted by “The Rum Lab”. The livestream featured Fede J. Hernández, an entrepreneur specializing in sales and marketing, and Félix Mateo, Distillery & Environmental Affairs Director at Club Caribe Distillers. The focus for today’s topic is a group study of Puerto Rico’s distillery tour in Puerto Rico, guided by Felix Mateo.
Felix Mateo’s journey began in the southern part of an island, surrounded by vast sugarcane fields. As a child, he would watch workers rise early, don their long shirts and hats, and wield machetes sharp enough to shave with. He was fascinated by their skill and the sweet smell of freshly cut cane. His first encounter with rum, a product derived from sugarcane, was during this time. However, his deeper involvement with rum production came much later. After growing up, Mateo pursued his education at Mayagüez, where he studied chemical engineering and chemistry.
Upon graduation, he started working in oil refineries located in the southern part of the island. However, due to an embargo in the 80s, these refineries were closed. This led Mateo to ponder his next career move. He considered the farming industry but ultimately decided on rum production – a decision influenced by his childhood experiences and the fact that people always enjoy a good drink.
Mateo then joined Bacardi, where he worked for over 30 years. During his tenure there, he not only held various positions and worked on numerous projects but also had the opportunity to learn from masters of rum who had emigrated from Cuba long ago. These individuals had incredible experience in rum making, and together with a highly knowledgeable technical group at Bacardi, they greatly contributed to Mateo’s learning. After retiring from Bacardi, Mateo joined Crew Caribbean in 2012. He is currently in charge of their operations and also oversees their facilities in Florida.
Felix Mateo’s journey in the rum industry led him to a unique partnership when their parent company, CC1, acquired two distilleries in Florida that used to be called “Florida Distillers”, that had been operational since the 1960s. This acquisition was a surprise to Mateo, who was unaware of the existence of distilleries in Florida.
The distilleries in Florida were not just production facilities; they also housed a bottling plant. Recognizing the potential to create a variety of products and ferment cane molasses, the company decided to establish a distillery in Puerto Rico. This decision was driven by the desire to create synergy between the operations in Florida and Puerto Rico.
The unique aspect of this setup was the location of the distillery in the mountains of Puerto Rico. The fermentation process is carried out in Florida, while the secondary distillation and aging take place in Puerto Rico. This arrangement allowed them to address a significant challenge faced by all distilleries – waste management. In the fermentation process, about 90% of the output is waste. However, they found a successful solution by converting this waste into cattle feed. This solution was particularly effective in Florida, given its substantial cattle population.
Felix Mateo talks about one of the distilleries in Florida, located approximately 40 minutes from Orlando or Disneyland. This distillery is unique in its approach to waste management, converting waste into cattle feed. This environmentally friendly solution is a key aspect of their operations.
The distillery, nestled in the mountains, is involved in various activities. They produce wine, undertake contract bottling, and even make citrus spirits due to their location in a citrus-growing region. They have the capability to ferment both citrus and cane.
The distillation process at this facility involves the use of first-generation stills. However, they are in the process of upgrading these stills to third-generation ones. A modern evaporation unit has been recently installed to increase capacity. This unit is particularly useful for treating waste from citrus and cane fermentation, which is more challenging to evaporate and concentrate.
In addition to this distillery, there is another one located in Lake Alfred, closer to Orlando. This facility has the same production capacity but boasts a larger storage capacity. Like its counterpart, it also houses fermentation and distillation units and evaporators for waste management. This setup ensures that 90% of the waste from distillation is effectively handled.
Felix Mateo, shared some interesting insights about their operations. He revealed that the majority of the molasses they use is sourced from Central Florida, near Okeechobee. There are thousands of acres of sugar cane in that region, and they purchase the molasses from these farms and transport it by trucks to their plant.
Felix mentioned that they have no issues with supply due to the large volume of molasses available. They also purchase another type of molasses called ‘refiners’, which is of a higher quality. In addition to these, they buy citrus molasses, a lesser-known type of molasses.
He also mentioned that many companies purchase their products for use in a variety of other products. Interestingly, most of the molasses they buy and distill comes from America, specifically Florida. This makes Club Caribe one of the few distilleries in Puerto Rico that uses American-grown sugarcane or sources American molasses.
Once the molasses is distilled in Florida, it is transported in tanks to Puerto Rico for further processing. The fermentation and first distillation are done in Florida, resulting in a product called ‘aguardiente’ or ‘high wine’. This is then transported by tankers to Puerto Rico via Jacksonville.
Felix Mateo and Fede Hernandez provided a virtual tour of their distillery in Puerto Rico. He described the distillery as a third-generation establishment with advanced equipment such as vacuum-operating columns and heat-providing columns for distillation.
The second floor of the distillery houses all the instrumentation needed to control the distillation process, including the removal of heads and tails to create a very light rum. As he ascended to the top of the distillery, he pointed out the beautiful location of the distillery in the mountains of Puerto Rico.
He highlighted two green warehouses that are part of their complex. The property, purchased in 2010, was formerly a pharmaceutical complex. Now, it houses various operations including rum production, water processing, wine making, and can manufacturing.
Felix also mentioned a can factory located within their complex and shared plans about building another factory near their distilleries in Florida. This insightful tour offered a unique glimpse into Club Caribe Distillers’ operations and facilities.
Felix shared some intriguing details about their distillery’s stills and rum production process. He revealed that the pot still they use is part of a family of stills that were once owned by 10 Cane. When these stills were sold, two families, including de la Cruz, the president and owner of Club Caribe, and Pepe Gonzalez, were the fortunate buyers.
The still they purchased is a 10,000 cognac pot still, one of the largest available. They aimed to create a highly automated operation, integrating numerous controls into the process. The result is a system where they input the recipe and the pot still carries out the job.
Interestingly, these stills were previously owned by Luis Vuitton Moet Chandon and used to create 10 cane rum in Trinidad and Tobago at a facility where Caroni was also produced. Despite interest from several parties, including Alexander Gabriel, owner of Plantation Rum and Sant Ferran, de la Cruz and Jose Pepe Alvarez emerged as the successful bidders.
Felix mentioned that they have several installations underway and are aging a unique aged rum for future release. This project involves secondary distillation and promises to deliver very unique profiles.
Felix Mateo, shed light on the process of how Caribbean rum and Rancho Grande qualify as Puerto Rican rum. According to Mateo, several transformation steps are required to meet the standards set by both the Puerto Rican government and the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau).
Mateo explained that they had to obtain a permit from the TTB and create several processes to comply with its requirements. This was particularly challenging on the aging side. In the past, distilleries used to bring spirits to Puerto Rico for aging and then send them back to their original location. However, this method did not meet the TTB’s transformation requirements.
To address this, Club Caribe Distillers worked diligently to convince the TTB that their newly created transformation process complied with these requirements. In addition to meeting TTB’s standards, they also had to fulfill Puerto Rico’s requirements, which mandate a minimum aging period of one year.
As a result of these rigorous processes, both Caribbean rum and Rancho Grande have achieved excellent quality. Specifically, Caribbean rum has a minimum aging period of one year, while Rancho Grande is aged for a minimum of five years.
Felix Mateo provided insights into the self-sustaining nature of their distillery. He explained that their facility is equipped with its own water system, including wells for their processes. A key feature of the distillery is its cogeneration plant, which is responsible for all the electricity in the complex. This independence from external power providers ensures a reliable and uninterrupted power supply for their operations.
The cogeneration plant operates by burning natural gas to generate electricity, steam, and chilled water for their processes. The motors seen in the showed video are part of this cogeneration system.
When asked about the source of natural gas, Mateo revealed that it is supplied by a company on the island that also provides natural gas to power companies. This comprehensive system allows Club Caribe Distillers to maintain a high level of self-sufficiency in their operations.
Felix explained the intricate process of rum making. The tour showcased their unique system of pot stills, which is central to their rum production. Mateo shared that they have implemented a teaching process where they start with test pot stills. These test pot stills are essentially smaller versions of the larger ones used in production. This is where they begin experimenting with recipes.
Once they have a recipe that produces the rum they desire, it is then scaled up. The recipe is plugged into their system and the larger pot still takes over the rest of the process. This methodical and systematic approach ensures the consistent quality of their rum.
In the world of spirits, Club Caribe and Alto Grande hold a significant place. Alto Grande, currently being promoted as a flagship brand, is recognized as a premium coffee company in Puerto Rico. Interestingly, it has diversified into the rum business under the same name. The decision to venture into rum production was made after ensuring a sufficient inventory to sustain over five years of operations.
Every year, they create unique rums, drawing on the expertise of master distillers and their own experience. The process involves blending two types of rums – a heavier rum and a lighter one – much like the blending of single malt and grain in making a fine scotch.
According to Mateo, the essence of rum lies in blending. Each blend results in a different profile, creating a diverse range of rums. He emphasized the importance of aging in old barrels, a traditional practice in Puerto Rico that significantly influences the flavor profile of the rum.
Félix Mateo, has had the unique experience of working at two distilleries located in contrasting environments – one by the ocean and the other in the mountains. This has given him a firsthand understanding of how geography influences the aging process of rum.
Mateo confirms that there is indeed a difference in the aging process between the two locations. At the ocean-side distillery, temperatures remain consistently high. In contrast, the mountain distillery experiences more varied temperatures. It’s cooler, especially during this time of year, with temperatures rising during the day. This variation in temperature creates a different profile for the rum, a fact that Mateo admits took him by surprise.
The interview also touched upon the geographical diversity of Puerto Rico. As one travels from north to south, lush greenery gives way to arid landscapes. Sidra, located near this transition zone, experiences more rainfall and cooler temperatures around December to February. This unique climate further influences the aging process, adding another layer of complexity to their rums.
The rum industry is currently undergoing a fascinating evolution, with distilleries experimenting with different types of barrels for aging. Not just ex-bourbon or ex-American whiskey barrels, but also ex-cognac barrels and others are being explored. This experimentation is seen as a beautiful project, opening up new possibilities for flavor profiles.
Félix Mateo, however, holds a more traditional view. Despite the industry’s shift towards experimentation, Mateo remains a firm believer in the power of blending and aging in old barrels. He doesn’t currently see the need for using cherry barrels, but he doesn’t rule out the possibility for future exploration.
Mateo emphasizes that creating high-quality rum is about more than just experimentation. It’s about not taking shortcuts, being consistent, and focusing on proper aging and blending. He believes that these principles are key to avoiding problems and ensuring the creation of top-notch rum. Interestingly, this trend of experimenting with different barrels isn’t exclusive to the rum industry. It’s also being observed in Scotch production, indicating a broader shift in the spirits industry towards innovation and diversity in aging processes.
Featured Image: YouTube – Edgar Rosado
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