Madeira: Where Rum Finds Its True Essence and Protection

As a passionate connoisseur of the rum industry, I am pleased to write this article about the world of Madeira Rum.This small but remarkable island, located in the Atlantic, is widely known for its world-renowned Madeira wine. However, there is another jewel in its crown: Madeira Rum. In this article, I discovered Madeira’s historic relationship with sugarcane cultivation and how it has become an epicenter of high-quality rum production.

Throughout this research, I will reveal the secrets behind the production of Madeira Rum, the diversity of rums available, how to enjoy them to the fullest and the certification process that guarantees their quality. I also want to highlight the local producers who, with generations of experience, have kept the island’s rum tradition alive.

Madeira: The Island and its History

The island of Madeira, located in the middle of the Atlantic, is known for its breathtaking landscapes, its famous Madeira wine and, of course, its distinctive rum. But before entering the world of rum, it is essential to understand the geography of this charming island and how rum production has evolved throughout its history.

Geography of the Island of Madeira

Madeira, a Portuguese territory, lies between latitudes 30° and 33° north of Lisbon, approximately 978 km southwest of the Portuguese capital. It consists of two inhabited islands, the main one, Madeira, and the smaller one, Porto Santo, in addition to several uninhabited islands known as the Desertas and Selvagens Islands. Its location in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean gives it a subtropical climate, with mild winters and warm summers, resulting in optimal conditions for growing sugar cane.

History of Rum Production and Sugar Cane Culture

The history of rum in Madeira is closely linked to sugar cane, which has been grown on the island for centuries. Sugar cane was brought to Madeira by Portuguese navigators in the 15th century, and its cultivation became an integral part of the island’s economy and culture. Over the years, sugarcane has been grown on small farms, allowing meticulous attention to ensure exceptional quality.

This attention to detail is evident in the island’s rum production. Madeira Rum is considered one of the most exclusive agricultural rums in the world, as it is produced from the fresh juice of sugar cane, rather than molasses. This unique process contributes to its unique characteristics and qualities.

Sugarcane Cultivation in the Agricultural Region of Madeira

As I mentioned earlier, the cultivation of sugar cane in the Autonomous Region of Madeira is fundamental to the production of the distinctive Madeira Rum. Now, let’s delve into the details that make this rum truly special by exploring the geography and climate of the agricultural region, the importance of soils and orography, as well as the area of sugarcane production in Madeira.

Geography and Climate of the Agricultural Region

The Autonomous Region of Madeira is made up of two inhabited islands, Madeira and Porto Santo, along with several uninhabited islands known as the Desertas and Selvagens Islands. This archipelago is located in the Atlantic Ocean, between latitudes 30° and 33° north of Lisbon. This location provides a subtropical climate that is essential for sugarcane cultivation. Mild winters and warm summers provide ideal conditions for cane growth and high-quality juice production.

Importance of Soils and Orography

Sugarcane cultivation in Madeira is characterized by its focus on quality. This is largely due to the soils and orography of the region. Despite limited mechanization, small farms allow for personalized attention resulting in increased productivity. Soils, even in drier and less fertile areas, have proven to be suitable for growing vigorous sugarcane, such as the POJ 2725 variety, which can be adapted to different conditions.

Madeira’s mountainous terrain and orography also play a crucial role in distributing rainfall and regulating sugarcane irrigation. The island’s slopes and valleys allow for adequate irrigation during the initial stages of cane growth, which is essential given the limited amount of rainfall.

Sugarcane Production Area in Madeira

Sugar cane production in Madeira is carried out on farms distributed throughout the island, with special emphasis on the agricultural region of Porto da Cruz. Careful attention to cultivation has resulted in remarkable productivity that can reach up to 120 tons per hectare on more recent plantations. This focus on quality and performance has made Madeira a leading center of sugarcane production, which, in turn, guarantees the high-quality raw material needed for the production of Madeira Rum.

Particularities of Sugar Cane Cultivation in Madeira

The cultivation of sugarcane in the Autonomous Region of Madeira has its unique characteristics that contribute to the production of the exquisite Madeira Rum. Over the years, local farmers have developed specific farming methods that are essential for the quality of the cane and therefore the rum. 

Unique Farming Methods on Small Farms

What distinguishes sugarcane cultivation in Madeira is the meticulous attention and focus on quality over quantity. Unlike the vast cane plantations found elsewhere in Madeira, cane is grown on small farms. This allows close and personalized monitoring of each plant and greater attention to individual growing conditions. Local farmers have perfected the practice of family farming, ensuring that each cane plant is grown in optimal conditions.

Sugarcane is mainly grown by traditional methods, which means that extensive mechanization is not used. Harvesting cane is a manual task and a laborious process. Careful attention and focus on the quality of each plant are fundamental to ensure the best raw material for the production of Madeira Rum.

Irrigation and Special Attention to Cultivation

Irrigation is a critical aspect of sugarcane cultivation in Madeira. Although the island enjoys a subtropical climate, the focus on rum quality requires rigorous control of the quantity and timing of irrigation. Since sugarcane is sensitive to the amount of water, the island’s mountainous topography is used to distribute irrigation effectively along the slopes and valleys. This ensures that the plants receive the right amount of water during their growth, which in turn contributes to the high quality of the cane and thus the rum.

“Drill Bit” Plague and its Impact on Production

One of the threats facing sugarcane cultivation in Madeira is the “Broca” pest (Diatraea saccharalis). This pest can cause considerable damage to sugarcane stalks and, therefore, to the quality and quantity of production. The “Broca” pierces the stems of the cane and feeds on its sap, weakening the plant and affecting its health.

Local farmers have implemented control measures to minimize the impact of the “Broca” on cane plantations. This includes constant monitoring of the plants and the application of specific treatments when necessary to protect the crops. The fight against this pest is an integral part of crop care and guarantees the quality of the raw material for the production of Madeira Rum.

Geographical Indication (GI) 

This is a fundamental element in the protection and authenticity of Madeira Rum, contributing to its recognition and quality at national and international level.

Importance of GI for Madeira Rum

The Geographical Indication (GI) is a quality seal that is awarded to products that possess unique and distinctive characteristics due to their geographical origin. In the case of Madeira Rum, GI is essential to protect its authenticity and preserve the traditions and production techniques that have evolved over generations on the island.

The GI guarantees that Madeira Rum is obtained exclusively from the alcoholic fermentation and distillation of sugarcane juice produced in the Autonomous Region of Madeira. This means that the rum cannot be produced anywhere else and bear the name “Madeira Rum”. The GI safeguards the appellation of origin and ensures that consumers are purchasing an authentic and high quality product.

Geographical Area of Production and Origin of Sugar Cane

The Autonomous Region of Madeira, in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, is the cradle of Madeira Rum and the geographical area protected by the GI. This region includes the islands of Madeira and Porto Santo, where the sugar cane used to produce rum is grown. The origin of the sugar cane used in the production of Madeira Rum lies exclusively in this geographical area.

The region’s subtropical climate, unique orography, and fertile soils provide ideal conditions for growing high-quality sugarcane. The cane grown in Madeira adapts well to a wide variety of soils, even in the poorest and driest, making it perfect for the production of quality agricultural rum. The GI ensures that the raw material used in the production of Madeira Rum is local, which is crucial for its authenticity and uniqueness.

Madeira Agricultural Rum and its Production Process

Madeira Agricultural Rum is a jewel of the distillery that has been carefully perfected over generations in the Autonomous Region of Madeira. 

Details of the Agricultural Rum Production Process

Madeira Rum is obtained exclusively through the alcoholic fermentation and distillation of sugarcane juice, a process that combines the experience accumulated over generations with the traditional technology of the Autonomous Region of Madeira. Each stage of the process is carried out with great care to preserve the quality and authenticity of the final product.

After manual harvesting of the sugarcane, the stems are quickly subjected to grinding, which determines the quality of the final product. The resulting pulp is decanted and filtered to obtain a “broth” that is as clean as possible.

Before fermentation, the sugar content is adjusted to the ideal level, which optimizes the fermentation process. Fermentation is a slow and controlled process that can take several days, depending on the ambient temperature.

The liquid resulting from the fermentation, known as “cane wine,” can be subjected to a new decantation before distillation, which preserves the distinctive quality and flavour of this product typical of the Autonomous Region of Madeira.

Importance of Fermentation, Distillation and Aging

The fermentation and distillation of sugarcane juice are crucial steps in the production of Madeira Rum. Slow and controlled fermentation allows the characteristic flavours and aromas of fermented sugar cane to fully develop. Distillation is a phase that requires precision and skill, and is critical to obtaining the desired alcohol level and removing impurities.

Aging is another crucial element in the creation of Madeira Rum. This rum can be aged in oak barrels for a minimum period of three years, and this process is subject to rigorous control. Aging in oak barrels brings a unique richness and complexity to rum, with flavours that evolve over time.

Types of Madeira Rum Produced

Madeira Rum comes in two distinct categories, each with its own unique characteristics and flavours. Below, we will describe in detail both Natural Madeira Rum and Aged Madeira Rum, in addition to the rules and practices surrounding the addition of caramel and water in the production of this exceptional rum.

Natural Madeira Rum – Differs from other products in the same category for its intensity and aromatic complexity, and in terms of smell it is less neutral than its peers. It stands out for its typical tropicality, freshness, minerality and persistence.

Aged Madeira rum – Subject to aging in oak casks for a minimum period of three years. It stands out for its high potential of evolution, resulting in a unique and singular style. Full-bodied and bearer of an acidic freshness conferred by the terroir of the region, it offers a wide array of aromas and flavours that it acquires through the oxidative aging. It differs for its structure (full-bodied), aromatic complexity, delicacy and elegance of taste and high persistence.

Natural Madeira Rum: Intensity and Freshness

Natural Madeira Rum stands out for its intensity and aromatic complexity. Some of its most notable attributes include:

– Intense aromas: The distillation process of fermented sugar cane results in intense and characteristic aromas. These aromas are dominated by sharp alcoholic notes that convey a pleasant feeling of warmth.

– Tropical Notes: This type of rum often reveals specific notes of Madeira Rum, suggesting tropical fruits.. These notes add a unique dimension to your flavor profile.

– Freshness and Minerality: Natural Madeira Rum is known for its freshness and minerality. On the palate, it offers a sensation of freshness and a touch of dryness.

– Lightness: In terms of body, it is light and slightly sweet, with a persistent taste that lasts on the palate.

Aged Madeira Rum: Complexity and Depth of Flavour

Aged Madeira Rum is a jewel in the distillery that undergoes an aging process in oak barrels for a minimum period of three years. Features include:

– Oak Wood Enrichment: During the aging process, this rum comes into contact with oak wood, which adds a wide range of sweet notes such as honey and molasses, spices such as cinnamon and black pepper, vanilla, caramel and toast.

– Nut Notes: Aged Madeira Rum often features nut flavors, such as almonds, figs, and raisins, which intensify over time.

– Evolution over time: Evolution in oak barrels allows flavours to become more complex, rich and harmonious. With maturation, balsamic notes such as eucalyptus can emerge.

– Full Body: This rum has a full body, which means it fills the palate with its rich flavors and structure.

– Persistence: The high persistence of flavour is another distinctive feature. Each sip leaves a lasting impression on the palate.

Caramel and Water Addition Rules and Practices: Preserving Authenticity

In the production process of Madeira Rum, certain authorized practices are allowed to adapt the color and strength of the rum:

– Caramel: The addition of caramel is a permitted practice for adjusting the color of rum, but should be done in a way that does not alter the nature of the product. This ensures that Madeira Rum retains its authentic flavours.

– Water: The addition of water is also allowed, as long as it does not change the essence of the rum. This practice ensures that the rum reaches the desired alcohol level without negatively affecting its character.

Traditional Mentions for Madeira Rum: A Language of Authenticity

When exploring the world of Madeira Rum, it is essential to understand the traditional mentions used in labeling. These terms not only add depth to the knowledge of this drink, but also underline its authenticity. Below, we’ll detail the traditional terms you’ll find on Madeira Rum labels and what they mean.

«Aguardente de cana», «aguardente de cana-de-açúcar» or «aguardente de cana sacarina» – «Cane Spirit», «Sugar cane spirit» or «sacarine cane spirit» – terms compatible with any category.

– These terms, which translate as “cane brandy” in Spanish, are compatible with any category of Madeira Rum. They are used to describe the origin and character of rum, highlighting its base in sugar cane and its distillation process.

“Velho,” “Rum Velho,” “Aguardente Velha” – A Sign of Old Age

– The terms “velho” or old”” are terms reserved exclusively for aged Madeira Rum. They indicate that the rum has gone through an aging process, developing a more complex and mature flavor profile. These mentions are a sign that you can expect refined flavors and an exceptional experience.

With Age Indication – A Glimpse of Aging

– Age indications are a common feature in the labelling of Madeira Rum. These indications give you information about the ageing period of rum in oak barrels. Age indications allowed are as follows:

• 3 years
• 6 years or “Book”
• 9 years old 
• 12 years or “Old Reserve”
• 15 years or “Special Reserve”
• 18 years old” or “Superior Reservation”
• 21 years old” or “Gran Reserva”
• 25 years or any other indication of age approved by IVBAM, whether or not associated with the term “Premium Grand Reserve.”

With Indication of Year of Production
When you see the year of production on the label of a Madeira Rum, it means that that rum was produced in that specific year and then aged in oak barrels for a minimum period of 3 years before bottling. This mention offers an even more detailed insight into the history and quality of rum.

Certification and Authenticity: Guaranteeing the Quality of Madeira Rum

The quality and authenticity of Madeira Rum are essential aspects in the production of this distinguished drink. Geographical Indication (GI) status plays a fundamental role in the protection and preservation of your identity. 

Madeira Rum is a drink with a value rooted in the quality of the raw material and the experience of the producers. In addition, it is a product protected by national and Community legislation as an authentic product of the Autonomous Region of Madeira. This protection, granted through its GI status, ensures a high standard of quality and authenticity, safeguarding the legitimate interests of consumers.

The Essence of Certification: Control at Every Stage

Every economic agent seeking to produce Madeira Rum must be registered with the Madeira Wine Institute (IVBAM). In addition, all Madeira Rum that reaches the market must undergo a rigorous certification process. This process is not limited to administrative procedures, but involves physical controls, including inspections at the producers’ facilities. From the sugar cane to the final bottled product, each stage is subjected to careful scrutiny.

This certification process extends throughout the entire production process, including fermentation, distillation and aging. These controls ensure that each batch of Madeira Rum that reaches the market complies with the required specifications. It is this meticulous approach that ensures every sip of Madeira Rum is an authentic, high-quality experience.

The Key Role of Geographical Indication (GI)

The Geographical Indication plays a prominent role in the protection of Madeira Rum. Through the GI, rules and guidelines are established that producers must follow to maintain the quality and authenticity of this drink. In addition, the GI of Madeira Rum extends to the regulation of the origin of the sugar cane used in its production.

GI is a powerful tool that allows consumers to identify authentic and superior quality products. This not only safeguards Madeira’s tradition and heritage, but also ensures that rum connoisseurs from all over the world can enjoy a genuine and exceptional product.

Sugarcane Varieties in Madeira

Raw Material Diversity

Madeira rum owes its uniqueness not only to its production process, but also to the variety of sugar cane used. These varieties play a fundamental role in the creation of the most exceptional rums in the world.

In Madeira, several varieties of sugarcane are grown, each with distinctive characteristics that influence the taste and quality of the rum. Some of the most prominent varieties include:

1. POJ 2725: This is a vigorous and versatile sugar cane that adapts to a wide variety of soils. Its stems are rich in sugar, which contributes to a high yield in distillation. In addition, its rapid growth and lack of fibers make it ideal for the production of agricultural rum.

2. NCO 310: Another variety that thrives in different types of soils, NCO 310 produces reeds with a slightly larger diameter than other varieties. These stems are juicy and low in fiber, which improves industrial performance. Despite its lower regrowth capacity, it remains a valuable option.

3. “Yuba” or “Marble”: This is a thinner, drought-resistant cane. Although its maturation is later and the harvest can be more challenging, its high-quality juice gives Madeira rum a characteristic aroma and flavour. This variety is especially suitable for less humid soils.

The sugarcane varieties selected in Madeira are carefully chosen based on factors such as sugar content, adaptation to the soil, and resistance to specific diseases and climatic conditions. This ensures that Madeira rum has a high-quality base that contributes to its unique flavour and exceptional aromatic profile.

Rum producers in Madeira

The island of Madeira, in the Atlantic Ocean, is home to a select collection of rum producers, each with a distinctive history and approach. Below, we highlight both those mentioned above and other important players in the production of Madeira rum:

1. Abel Fernandes, Lda. – Located in Porto da Cruz, this distillery has been producing rum since 1982. His focus on aged rums, known as “Aguardente Velha,” includes exceptional blends with up to 24 years of maturation.

2. Engenho Novo da Madeira, Lda. – Founded in 2006, this company is known for reviving the legendary distillation column of the Torreão Factory mill, inherited from the Hinton family. William Hinton Rum is its main product, and has become an essential reference in more than twenty international markets.

3. Florentino Izildo de Gouveia Ferreira – O Reizinho – This distillery, created in 1982, has won multiple national and international awards, including Best Drink at the World Rum Awards in 2019. Their rum “O Reizinho” is exported to several countries.

4. J. Faria & Filhos, Lda. – Engenhos do Norte – Located in Porto da Cruz, it is the only distillery in Europe that uses steam as an energy source. His brands “Branca,” “Larano,” and “970” have won numerous awards.

5. Sociedade dos Engenhos da Calheta, Lda. – Founded in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, it is one of the oldest distilleries in Madeira. Their high-quality rum is instrumental in creating the famous “Poncha” drink.

6. Vinha Alta, Lda – Madeira’s newest distillery specializes in regional fruit spirits and unique rums. Its rum is characterised by its undiluted cane juice fermentation and ageing in Malvasía Madeira wine barrels in the Canhas mountains.

Each of these producers has left a unique mark on the world of rum, combining experience and passion to create some of the most coveted beverages. Its rums, with unique flavour profiles, are appreciated by connoisseurs and lovers of this drink all over the world.

Serving, Enjoying, Combining and Storing Madeira Rum

Now it’s time to dive into the practical side: how to serve, enjoy, blend and store this unique distillation.

Serve with Style

Rum is a beverage that deserves careful service to make the most of its richness and complexity. The temperature at which you serve your Madeira Rum will depend on its type. Young white rums are best served between 10º and 12º C, while aged rums, with their greater complexity, display their flavours at temperatures between 16º and 18º C. If you ever feel undecided about the right temperature, you can always consult the producer’s recommendations, which are often found on the label.

The choice of cup is fundamental. Opt for a traditional liquor glass, avoiding overly closed balloon shapes at the top. Madeira Rum needs space to release its aromas and allow the flavours to fully develop.

Enjoying the Richness of Flavours

The production and ageing of Madeira Rum influences its characteristics. In the category “Natural Madeira Rum,” you’ll find intense aromas that come from the distillation of fermented sugarcane juice. These aromas are punctuated by sharp alcoholic notes that provide a warm sensation. They often reveal tropical fruity notes, suggesting nuances of mango and melon, and it is even possible to detect vegetable notes.

On the other hand, “Aged Madeira Rum” offers a rich and complex bouquet due to contact with oak wood. This process brings a variety of notes, from sweets like honey and molasses to spices like cinnamon and black pepper. It can also include notes of vanilla, caramel, toast, nuts like almonds, figs, and raisins, and even tobacco undertones. Over time, these aromas become more complex, rich and harmonious, with the possibility of balsamic notes, such as eucalyptus, in evolution.

Combining with Mastery

Madeira Rum is a complex beverage with unique qualities, making it a versatile choice to pair with food and cocktails. Here are some suggestions for you to explore and discover why the versatility of Madeira Rum is as inspiring as its excellence.

– At the table, the youngest white Madeira Rum pairs perfectly with smoked fish-based delicacies. Its freshness and tropical fruity notes enhance the experience.

– Aged rum goes well with certain types of smoked meat. Its complexity and richness of flavours make it an impressive combination.

– If you are a chocolate lover, try the explosion of flavours when combining Madeira Rum with chocolate. The harmony between the aromas and flavours of rum and chocolate is an experience you won’t want to miss.

– For those who enjoy a relaxing experience, at the end of a meal, a good cigar or pipe tobacco is the ideal combination with an aged Madeira Rum. The resulting symphony of flavours and aromas is a delight for the senses.

Storage: Preserving the Essence

Madeira Rum should be treated with care even after purchase. When storing, be sure to keep the original characteristics of the rum. Some key tips:

– Store your Madeira Rum upright. This prevents the plugs from degrading and affecting the quality of the rum.

– Keep your rum in a dark, dry place. Exposure to sunlight and heat can alter its characteristics.

– The ideal storage temperature for Madeira Rum ranges between 12º and 14º C. This temperature contributes to the preservation of its quality.

– The relative humidity in the storage place should be between 60% and 80%. This prevents degradation of the plugs and labels, as well as the formation of fungi.

With these tips, you can enjoy your Madeira Rum at its finest, appreciating its richness and authenticity in every sip. 

Conclusions

Madeira rum is much more than just a spirit; it is a jewel of the distillery that has conquered palates all over the world for centuries. Its uniqueness lies in the combination of geographical and climatic factors, and a deeply rooted tradition on the island of Madeira. The Designation of Origin “Rum da Madeira” protects this tradition and guarantees the quality of this exceptional drink.

The geographical location in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, the unique microclimates and the rich diversity of soils make Madeira the perfect place to grow sugar cane. These factors, together with traditional farming practices, contribute to the creation of a high quality product that is appreciated all over the world. The story of Madeira rum is a story of pride and resilience. From its humble beginnings to becoming an internationally renowned product, Madeira rum has played an important role in the culture and economy of the region. He’s been through ups and downs and challenges, but his exceptional quality has kept him in the spotlight.

Acknowledgement

I would like to express my sincere thanks to Patricia Santana of the Instituto do Vinho, do Bordado e do Artesanato da Madeira, Elizabeth Stevenson of Lombo do Lombo and Peter Holland of Team Holland Limited a.k.a., for providing valuable information and resources that made this article possible. His dedication to promoting and preserving the Madeira rum tradition is utterly inspiring. 

To learn more about Rum da Madeira and keep up to date with the latest news, I invite you to visit the official website and follow its social networks: 

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